Jacquemus Spring 2025: The Chic Parisian Escape That Redefines Elegance

Simon Porte Jacquemus has always been one to surprise—his shows have transported us to lavender fields, sun-baked salt flats, and remote French villages, each location as much a character in his collections as the clothes themselves. But for Spring 2025, the boundary-pushing designer opted for something decidedly more intimate: the opulent art deco apartment of architect Auguste Perret, nestled in the heart of Paris. This unexpected, scaled-back venue was a far cry from his usual sprawling outdoor spectacles, yet it provided the perfect backdrop for a collection that’s a masterclass in elegant refinement and subtle sensuality.

Jacquemus’s decision to pivot toward a more “intimate” Parisian setting was a conscious one. As he explained post-show, the collection was partly inspired by his thoughts of expanding into New York and Los Angeles, channeling the French-American cultural exchange that defined much of the mid-20th century. "I’ve been thinking a lot about Coco Chanel and Christian Dior in America," he shared. "How they shaped the perception of French elegance across the Atlantic." It’s clear that his Spring 2025 collection is a tribute to that same elegance—refined, nostalgic, and undeniably chic—yet laced with Jacquemus’s playful, contemporary twist.

The 42 looks on display had a notably grown-up feel, one that is sophisticated yet never loses the designer’s signature playful sensibility. There were cocooning cabans, their soft silhouettes enveloping models in plush fabric, paired with voluminous, ultra-swishy circle skirts that swirled around with every step. The classic hourglass shape made an appearance in a paneled poplin dress, while black dots-on-white tulle draped over sweatshirts and pencil skirts, bringing an artful air to everyday staples. The collection’s balance between elegance and ease was striking—refined tailoring paired with relaxed, jersey draperies that featured dramatic side openings and eye-catching knotted back details.

One of the collection’s most iconic pieces was a giant tiger-patterned opera coat, which felt like a nod to the more daring, avant-garde side of Jacquemus. And while the womenswear had its moment of drama, there was a definite crossover to menswear, with three pristine white suits making a splash. One in particular, topped with a sweeping polka-dot-lined couture coat, had Met Gala-worthy energy, making it clear that Jacquemus is aiming for a more global sartorial statement with this collection.

While the collection may have had a more refined, couture-like quality, it wasn’t a drastic departure from Jacquemus’s playful beginnings. His love for geometry remained a cornerstone of his designs, with circles and triangles appearing throughout the collection in unexpected places, from the silhouette of a dress to the prints on fabric. Stripes and spots, often used in quirky ways, were paired with luxe materials like jersey and silk, creating a high-low balance that is quintessentially Jacquemus.

There’s also something irresistibly French about the collection. The references to old Hollywood glamour and French couture salons of the 1950s felt fresh and modern, with subtle hints of Marilyn Monroe’s iconic bullet-bra style under a lemon yellow sweater, and a rich animal-print coat inspired by the legendary fashion icon Peggy Guggenheim. These touches hinted at Jacquemus’s deep connection to fashion history, even as he reinterprets it through a contemporary lens.

In a show that invited close scrutiny (Jacquemus even joked about wanting to "be honest" and let his work stand on its own), the 41 looks that paraded down the runway were meticulously crafted, embodying the designer's ongoing evolution. It was a reminder that Jacquemus’s charm lies not just in the clothes, but in how they tell a story—one that seamlessly merges elegance, fun, and just the right touch of French sensuality.

As a designer known for making a statement through minimalism, Jacquemus has pushed the boundaries of what French couture can be, offering a collection that resonates with the same energy that has made his shows legendary. The Spring 2025 collection, with its marriage of sophistication and whimsy, proves that Jacquemus isn’t just making clothes; he’s shaping the future of fashion, one art deco apartment at a time.